Easy Tips to Taking Care of Your 35mm Camera: The Do's and Don'ts

Everyone who owns a 35mm camera has a different philosophy surrounding how to care for it. Some like to keep their 35mm film cameras in pristine condition, while others like to beat them into the ground. Regardless if you fall into one camp or the other there are some easy and objectivley good things you can do for your camera to get the most for your money and insure that if your camera was built to last a lifetime, it actually does.

 

Temperature Management

What to Do: Always allow your 35mm film camera to gradually adjust to temperature changes. If you're moving from a cold environment to a warm one, place the camera in its bag and allow it to slowly acclimate to the new temperature, preventing internal condensation. We hear this kind of advice all the time when it comes to the 35mm film rolls inside the camera, but not often do we hear it about the camera itself.

What NOT to Do: Avoid sudden temperature shifts. Rapid changes can cause condensation inside the camera and lens, potentially leading to fungus or internal damage.

 

Film Loading/Unloading

What to Do: Ensure you're in a relatively dust-free environment when loading or unloading film. Debris can enter the camera during this process and potentially scratch the film or internal components. It’s very important when you load and unload your 35mm camera you’re using the most “hands free” options possible. You don’t want you hands touching the very fragile shutter curtain or anywhere on the inside glass. Most 35mm cameras were designed to keep you out of contact with these inner mechanics.

What NOT to Do: Never force the film rewind crank. If there's resistance, there may be an issue with the film or the camera's mechanism. Most camera breaks come from a moments panic. It can be unnerving when your 35mm camera jams up and won’t wind the 35mm film back any further. It’s better to wait until you can open your camera back in the dark to diagnose the problem then to blindly force the gears to turn and risk damaging your 35mm camera further.

 

Storage

Avoid Basements and Attics: These areas can have significant temperature fluctuations and may harbor mold or pests. A controlled environment is best for storage.

Anti-Fungal Storage: For those in particularly humid climates, consider storing your camera in a dry cabinet or dehumidifying storage box. This prevents fungal growth which can irreversibly damage lenses. If storing for extended periods, remove the battery to prevent leaks and potential corrosion.

Look before you buy: Knowing how a 35mm camera and film lenses should be stored is not only helpful for preserving the film cameras you already have but also for buying new ones. Next time you’re shopping around a vintage store, thrift shop, or a yard sale take an extra long look at the camera you’re about to buy to see if the storage conditions have affected the camera body, or worse, the camera glass. If a 35mm camera looks like it has gone uncleaned, sitting in the same 80s pleather bag for 20 years.. there is a good chance it has!

Lens with Fungus

Not all fungus is permanent, using a careful combination of hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, and vinegar can be a great solve however be sure you know what you’re doing before you go chemical dunking your 35mm lens.

 

Straps

What to Do: Always buy a camera strap right when you buy a camera. No one is immune to a camera fall and this is the quickest way you will destroy your camera. Use wide, padded straps. They distribute weight evenly, reducing stress on the camera's strap lugs. If you can, source the 35mm camera strap made specifically for your camera so you get perfect weight distribution.

What NOT to Do: Avoid using metal or chain straps without protection. They can scratch the camera body. It’s best to avoid any kind of wrist strap, even for small handheld cameras. Wrist straps are known to frequently break and leave your 35mm camera flailing around in the wind. Having your camera around your neck is the safest place for it.

For a quality strap I recommend Tap & Die. All their steps are hand crafted, leather, and will age with grace.

 

Proper Cleaning

Cleaning your 35mm camera slowly and methodically is essential for its longevity.

The Body:

  • Dust off with an Air Blower: Begin by using the air blower to remove loose dust and debris from the camera's body. This step prevents any potential scratching when you brush or wipe the camera later.

  • Brushing: Gently brush the camera's surface using a soft-bristle brush. Focus on areas like the film rewind crank, shutter release button, and other nooks where dust may accumulate.

  • Wipe Down the Body: After brushing, gently wipe down the camera body using a dry microfiber cloth. If there are stubborn marks, you can slightly dampen the cloth with water, but ensure it's not too wet.


The Lens:

  • Dust Removal: Begin by removing any loose dust or particles from the lens using the air blower. Always blow air from a distance to avoid accidentally spitting onto the lens.

  • Brushing: Use your soft-bristle brush to gently brush the lens surface. This further ensures all loose particles are removed before you apply any liquid.

  • Lens Cleaning Solution: Apply some lens cleaning solution to a lens tissue (never directly onto the lens). Gently wipe the lens in a circular motion, starting from the center and working outwards. This method ensures any debris is pushed out and away from the lens center.

  • Final Wipe: Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to give the lens a final gentle wipe, ensuring all residues are removed.

  • Lens Rear Element: The lens's rear element (the part that attaches to the camera) can also accumulate dust. Repeat the cleaning process, but be extra gentle, as this area is crucial for image quality.



Things to Avoid:

  • Canned Air: It can release propellants that can leave a residue on your 35mm camera and film lens.

  • Direct Liquid Application: Always apply cleaning solutions to a cloth or tissue, never directly onto the film camera or lens.

  • Harsh Chemicals: Avoid household cleaners or solutions with high alcohol content, as they can damage the lens coating or camera finish.

  • Touching the Glass: Oils and dirt from your fingers can be hard to remove and can damage lens coatings.

  • Over-cleaning: Only clean your 35mm film camera when necessary. Over-cleaning, especially the lens, increases the risk of scratches or damage.

 

Lens Mounting and Dismounting

Correctly mounting and dismounting your camera lens can be crucial in preserving the alignment pieces, and internal competes of your camera.

Mounting a Lens:

  • Turn Off the Camera (If Applicable): If your 35mm camera has electronic components, always turn it off before changing lenses. This reduces static, which can attract dust.

  • Prepare the Lens: Have the lens ready by removing its rear cap, ensuring you expose the rear element for as little time as possible to avoid damage.

  • Align the Mounting Indicators: Most camera bodies and lenses have alignment marks or dots. Line these up to ensure a correct and smooth attachment.

  • Insert and Twist: Gently insert the lens into the 35mm camera's mount and rotate it (usually clockwise) until it clicks securely into place.

  • Check the Lock: Make sure the lens is securely attached by lightly trying to rotate it counter-clockwise. If it doesn’t budge, it's locked in.

What not to do

  • Rush: Hurrying can lead to mistakes. Always take your time to ensure you're mounting the lens correctly.

  • Force Anything: If the lens doesn't seem to fit or lock in easily, don't force it. Instead, realign and try again.

Dismounting a Lens:

  • Turn Off the Camera (If Applicable): Again, this reduces static electricity which might attract dust.

  • Press the Lens Release Button: Hold down the lens release button, which is usually located on the front side of the camera body.

  • Rotate and Remove: While holding the release button, rotate the lens counter-clockwise (for most cameras) until it's free from the body.

  • Cap Immediately: As soon as you've removed the lens, place the rear lens cap on to protect it from dust and scratches.

What not to do

  • Leave the Camera Exposed: Once you've removed the lens, if you're not immediately attaching another, ensure you place the camera's body cap on to prevent dust from entering the mirror box and potentially reaching the film plane.

Long term benefits of proper handling

  1. Preserves Lens and Camera Mounts: Properly aligning and gently handling lenses during changes ensures that the mounts on both the lens and camera body remain undamaged. Damaged mounts can result in wobbly lenses or light leaks.

  2. Minimizes Dust and Contaminants: Reducing the time your camera's internals are exposed and avoiding static build-up helps to keep dust and contaminants out. This ensures clearer images and protects the camera's internal mechanics.

  3. Maintains Lens Coating: Being gentle and using caps protects the lens's coatings, which are critical for image quality. Scratches or damage to this coating can affect image clarity and contrast.

  4. Ensures Operational Longevity: Cameras and lenses are precision instruments. Proper care during lens changes ensures both continue to operate smoothly over time.

 

Shutter Speeds

It’s important to run your camera through shutter speeds if it has remained Idle The shutter mechanism is among the most crucial, and like any mechanical device, it can get sluggish or sticky when not used regularly. Exercising the full range of shutter speeds ensures that the camera's mechanics remain in optimal working condition. Here’s How:

  • Start Slow: Begin with the slowest shutter speed available on your camera. This could be anything from 1 second to 30 seconds or more.

  • Fire the Shutter: Press the shutter release button and observe or listen to the shutter curtains (or blades) move. The sound should be smooth without any hitches or hesitations.

  • Incrementally Increase Speed: Move to the next fastest shutter speed setting on your camera. Fire the shutter again and observe.

  • Repeat: Continue this process, progressively moving through all the shutter speeds until you've reached the fastest setting on your camera, which might be 1/500th, 1/1000th, or even 1/4000th of a second, depending on your camera model.

  • Reverse: After reaching the fastest speed, work your way back down to the slowest speed. This ensures a complete exercise of the mechanism.

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